Holiday in South India, November 27 to December 5

I have the honor to introduce a guest author: my brother Martin was kind enough to write an extensive report of our recent holiday in South India. A very big thank you to Martin for coming to see me in India, spending some great time together and for writing down our experiences! Under this link you'll find a selection of our photographs.

It was at 3 o'clock in the morning when I met Philipp in a Mumbai hotel room. He had managed to get a week-long holiday, allowing us to travel through the southern part of India. By a lucky coincidence, our father was in Mumbai too for a weekend which allowed us to visit the metropolis in a threesome.

Having spent a few preceding days in the North Indian cities of Delhi and Agra, I have been warned several times by Indians that traffic and pollution in Mumbai are 'just crazy' - even compared to India's capital city. With these words in mind, we started our sightseeing in this immense 20 million inhabitants metropolis. Though the streets are crowded, traffic was not as bad as expected. Surrounding southern Mumbai, the Arabian Sea gives the city a nice backdrop and some quieter places like the famous Chowpatty Beach. Mumbais main sights date back to the colonial area and include the Gateway of India - a basalt arch facing the harbour - as well as the enormous Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station (formerly Victoria Terminus).

Peter and Philipp in front of the famous Taj Mahal hotel, Mumbai

The Victoria Terminus, Mumbai

New skyscrapers - lots of which are still under construction - make for a bizzare contrast to the fish market at Sassoon Docks or the Dhobi Ghat, an outdoor laundry, washing all kinds of linen and clothes, mainly by man-power. After a one hour ride from Mumbai harbour in a boat-like construction made entirely of thick wooden planks, we reached Elephanta Island a few miles offshore, well known for its cave-temples cut into the rock. One of the less pleasant things about Mumbai are its huge slum areas as well as the thousands of homeless people and beggars, highlighting the incredible difference between poor and rich in India.

Martin on Elephanta Island

On an overcrowded night train - its coaches reminding us of cars used for cattle transport in Europe - we left Mumbai heading south, reaching our next destination Goa some twelve hours later. As high the pace of live was in Mumbai, as low it is in Goa; local tourist brochures recommending to put of and stow any watches. Perfect beaches (almost empty at this time of the year), blue sky and peak temperatures around 35 °C offered some relaxation after the days passed in the city. Whereas most of the staff in hotels and tourist sights in the rest of India seems to be less than friendly and hardly motivated, Goans showed to have better manners: we lived in simple but well maintained lodges surrounded by lots of palms and close to the beach. Staff was very friendly and welcoming, food in Goa was exceptional. To see a bit more of Goa than just the local town and beaches close to our hotel, we opted for hiring bicycles. After riding them for a few meters we had to re-adjust our plans for the day, as the maintenance of these bikes did not seem to be that intensive. Saddles were much too low and not adjustable, one chain kept falling out of its gear and braking action was almost inexistent. Indian bicycles are obviously not made to ride distances of more than a few kilometers. Even though we passed an excellent day and saw interesting things as the local fishermen spreading their fish on streets to dry them.

Drying fish on the road

Sunset at the Goan beach in Benaulim

After another journey on a night train (this time more confortable) our program was again dominated by cultural sights. After a thrilling ride in completely overcrowded buses with some people even travelling on the roof, we reached Somnathpur, a small town consisting of some small sheds and houses linked by unpaved roads. Besides the shabby town, offering an insight view into the 'other', less spectacular India, a splendid Hindu temple was constructed here in 1286. All walls are richly decorated, illustrating different scenes and figures ranging from Hindu lords to elephants carved into the stone.

Details of the Hindu temple in Somnathpur

The famous Maharaja Palace in Mysore, strolls in the same city as well as a walk up to Chamundi Hill concluded our trip. Nevertheless, the bus ride back to Bangalore was again some kind of an adventure: the brand new bus on this route was fitted with a powerful engine, allowing the driver to overtake other vehicles in quite a risky manner. We were both somehow surprised to reach Bangalore without having smashed some other car or motorbike to pieces.

Mysore market

A giant bull statue - a place of worshipping - on the way to Chamundi hill

So, what are the main impressions of a tourist after staying in India for some 15 days? Besides exceptional buildings and cultural sights, some regions as Goa attract people with their beautiful countryside. Immense social differences as well as the enormous pollution (Indians throw their rubbish just to the ground) are a downside of this country. Furthermore, the behaviour of some people towards foreigners is quite special: lots of taxi drivers, street vendors or tourist guides try to cheat you, others try to get you into certain shops or restaurants to get a provision from the respective owner. Therefore you may have some difficulty in recognizing those people who really want to help you.

As I am leaving Philipp and Bangalore towards Switzerland, I can summarize, that we spent excellent and impressing holidays we won't forget. A last hint: if you plan a trip to India, do not miss to read "The White Tiger" by Aravind Adiga, discussed by Philipp in an earlier thread of this blog; besides guide books it is a perfect preparation for a visit to this country.